Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.